Piazze & Ponti
Squares, Bridges, and The Tiber Island
Ponte Palatino and Ponte Rotto
The Ponte Palatino or the Palatine Bridge was built by the engineer named Angelo Vescovali in 1886. The construction was completed in collaboration with a Belgian company that specialized in constructing iron bridges at the end of the 19th century. This bridge is directly connected to the culture of the area in several ways. The bridge is also known as the English Bridge due to the traffic direction flowing on the reverse side of the road. One cultural event that occurred in the past on this bridge that is no longer practiced, is the “game of rocks” or also known as throwing stones. The bridge was the meeting place for rival neighborhoods of Trastevere and Testaccio to play this game.
Ponte Rotto or the broken bridge is a large ruin of a bridge that was destroyed over time due to the River Tiber’s fast and brutal current. This former bridge is located directly south of the Tiber island and a short distance from the ancient Pons Aemilius. The bridge was at one time the longest bridge in the city and has a very long and difficult history. The placement of the bridge is located in one of the more dangerous sections of the river where the current is very strong. This led to countless instances of the bridge being destroyed and then subsequent reconstruction attempts over the centuries. The bridge also had several name changes over the centuries going from Maximus bridge in the 9th century to the Santa Maria bridge and then the Senatorium bridge in 1144. In 1552 the next renovation began by Nanni di Baccio who used a design created by Michelangelo. This design was also deemed ineffective as the bridge was swept away in a flood several years later. In 1573 Pope Gregory XIII attempted to reconstruct the bridge again which was commemorated by an inscription plaque which is still visible today. This project was also connected to the acqua felice pipeline which fed the fountain in the Piazza di Santa Maria. The pipline and bridge were once again destroyed in the year 1598 from a flood.
Origins of the Tiber Island
Isola Tiberina is a small island located between the lively neighbourhood of Trastevere and the historic city center. There are quite a few legends as to how this island came to be. However, in reality, the island was made from an accumulation of tufa (a local volcanic rock) accompanied by various sand and debris on top (from numerous floods, variations in water and sediment levels, and dumping of waste). However, one exciting creation story about the island says that it was formed by the accumulation of wheat and grain thrown into the river by Romans following the end of Lucius Tarquinius Superbus’ tyranny (along with other debris thrown into the river over time).
Today, from an aerial view, Isola Tiberina slightly resembles the shape of a ship–and this is actually purposeful. Another legend about how the island was made was that it was originally a ship. The Romans played around with this idea by giving it ship-like elements: the island is bordered in travertine to make it look like there is the stern and bow of a ship. There is also an obelisk in the central portion of the island that slightly resembles a mast.
A historical source that mentions the creation of Isola Tiberina is the Ab Urbe Condita by Titus Livius, a historian who wrote about the history of Rome and its people. The multi-volume text was written in Latin between 27-9 BC. In Livius’ account of how the island was formed, he states in the Ab Urbe Condita that “It was the height of the summer and the stream was low, consequently the corn stuck in the shallows, and heaps of it were covered with mud; gradually as the debris which the river brought down collected there, an island was formed. I believe that it was subsequently raised and strengthened so that the surface might be high enough above the water and firm enough to carry temples and colonnades.” Even though Livius’ written history of Isola Tiberina is thousands of years old, it is still very much relevant today and harbours some truth.
Ponte Fabricio
While entering the bridge from the island, on the left side sits the medieval tower called Caetani tower. It was added by the Pierloni family in the 11th century to fortify Tiber Island and guard Ponte Fabricio. The tower takes its name from the Caetani family which owned the property in the 14th century. It is also referred to as ‘Torre della Pulzella’ (Tower of the Maid) because of the maiden’s face appearing on the bricks. According to legend, in the 14th century a noble woman was imprisoned in the tour because she refused to marry the eldest son of an aristocrat waiting for her lover and it is her face that was sculpted.
Ponte Fabricio, the oldest bridge of Rome, was built in 62 BC replacing a wooden bridge damaged by fire. The ponte, named after its builder Lucio Fabricius who was in charge of care of the streets maintenance, was constructed over four arches (two on each side), with inscriptions on them commemorating him: L(UCIUS) FABRICIUS C(AI) F(ILIUS) CUR(ATOR) VIAR(UM) FACIUNDUM COERAVIT, Latin for “Lucius Fabricius, son of Claudius and roads’ curator, made build”. Later, the ponte was restored after the flood of 23 BC, in 21 BC, by the Roman general Marcus Aemilius Lepidus.
The pedestrian bridge is connecting the man-made Tiber Island and the old Jewish quarter from where the inscription of the arches can be admired best from the right side. It is also known as Ponte Quattro Capi because of the two four-faced herms of Janus, Roman God of doors and gates, placed on both sides of the bridge while entering it from the left bank of the river. They were added in 1849 and are referred, sometimes, as representing the architects who restored the bridge over time.
Gemelli Isola
Gemelli Isola, formerly known as Fatebenefratelli Gemelli Isola Tiberina, is a hospital on Isola Tiberina that was established in 1585. However, it was not the island’s first designated medical area, as its foundation was closely linked to healthcare and wellness.
In 293 BC, Rome was hit with an extremely deadly plague, killing many, and due to the death and destruction, a group of Romans was sent to Epidaurus, Greece, to the cult of Asclepius, the Greek god of medicine. Asclepius’ symbol is that of a snake, which the Romans brought back with them. From the port in Rome, the snake swam through the Campus Martius to the island, where it remained, indicating where the Roman temple for Aesclepius should be built. After the temple was built, it was inaugurated in 289 BC, and the temple's location today is underneath Chiesa di San Bartolomeo.
During World War II, what is today known as Gemelli Isola was a hospital used during the war to treat patients with K Syndrome. K Syndrome is a fake disease that was constructed by Giovanni Borromeo, one of the head doctors at the hospital. Jews and anti-fascists who sought refuge in the hospital were identified as having K Syndrome, and the made-up sickness became a sort of code word. When Nazi soldiers came to inspect the hospital, doctors would explain the horrors of K Syndrome, and thus, they would not even want to see or interact with the patients suffering from this “disease.” The ruse of K Syndrome saved many lives throughout the war, and the hospital accepted refugees until Rome’s liberation.
Basilica di San Bartolomeo all’Isola
Located on Tiber Island behind the Ospidale di Gemelli, the Basilica di San Bartolomeo all’Isola has stood for one thousand years on the ruins of what was once the temple to Aesculapius, Roman god of Medicine. Otto III, Holy Roman Emperor, commissioned the church in 998 CE following the reconquest of Rome, and originally dedicated it to Adalbert, bishop of Prague, killed in 997 while evangelizing pagan populations. This church was meant to house the remains of Saint Adalbert and Saint Bartholomew the Apostle, the latter’s remains having been donated by his predecessor, Otto II Rome in 983.
Tiber Island was chosen for this new church, for several reasons. For many centuries, the existence of the Roman temple to Aesculapius saw great numbers of visitors pleading for their health, establishing it as a sacred place of pilgrimage. In addition, Trastevere was developing into a prominent Christian quarter while the ancient Jewish quarter existed across the bridge on the left bank. As such, the location was seen as a major crossing point between the left bank and Trastevere and between prominent religions.
It was renovated in the 11th and 12th centuries but a Tiber river flood in 1577 damaged the church beyond repair, forcing it to be rebuilt in the 17th century by Orazio Torriani. The current San Bartolomeo basilica consists of a baroque façade on two levels and a portico. Inside the church, visitors encounter three naves supported by fourteen ancient columns dating to the earliest structure. Under the altar stands a red porphyry sarcophagus with the relics of Saint Bartholomew and Saint Adalbert.
Like other churches in Rome, San Bartholomeo all’Isola houses artwork to be admired, including the Flagellation of Christ by Antonio Carracci (1589 – 1618). Outside in the piazza, visitors can also find a four-side guglia decorated with four different saints in niches by the 19th century sculptor Ignacio Jiacometti.
In 1994, Pope John Paul II entrusted San Bartolomeo all’Isola to the care of the Community of Saint’Egidio. Five years later, he dedicated the church to the memory of the martyrs of the 20th and 21st centuries and erected a memorial to them in preparation for the 2000 Jubilee. Today, it continues to be cared for by Saint’Egidio and serves as a place to remember the martyrs.
Ponte Cestio
The Bridge is located directly across from Piazza di Piscinula.
Ponte Cestio is one of the oldest bridges in Rome, it was constructed in the year 46 BC.
Directly connects to Rome’s only river island in Tiber Island.
Ponte Cestio was built in the year 46 BC by Lucio Cestio who was left in charge to govern Rome while Caesar was leading the Roman army during the Spanish war. Over centuries, the bridge has gone through various renovations and repairs due to the strong river current of the Tiber.
The bridge was also renamed several times going from “di Graziano” to “San Bartolomeo” and even “ferrato” before finally settling on Ponte Cestio after the completion of the construction of the new walls of the Tiber in 1899.
Ponte Garibaldi
Welcome to Ponte Garibaldi, the bridge that connects Lungotevere de’Cenci coming from Rome’s city center to Piazza Gioachino Belli, located in our very own Trastevere. This bridge was designed by architect Angelo Vescovali and was built in the late 19th century between the years of 1884 and 1888. It stands with two metal spans, lying on a central shaft and further on two smaller shafts that are covered in travertine. The bridge itself is 120 meters or 390 feet long.
The main aim of building this bridge was to increase and ease the flow of traffic coming from the city center into Trastevere, as the already-existing bridges that connected traffic flow into Trastevere - being Ponte Rotto, Ponte Cestio, and Ponte Sisto, were only practical for the use of boats that would mainly stop at Ponte Sisto.
The name of this bridge is based on a commemoration to Giuseppe Garibaldi, one of the founding fathers of the Italian unification. After Italy’s unification, Rome became its capital and allowed for a series of street expansions, including those leading up to Ponte Garibaldi. Similarly, this bridge was also given its name as it stands in close proximity to the Janiculum Hill, where Garibaldi and his men fought the French in 1849.
In 1959, this bridge was eventually enlarged in order to facilitate the flow of traffic towards Trastevere, especially with the building of the ‘Trastevere’ Train Station or Stazione Ferrovaria di Trastevere.
Ponte Sisto
Ponte Sisto is a pedestrian bridge spanning the Tiber River in Rome, connecting Piazza Trilussa on the Trastevere side, to Via Pettinari and Campo dei Fiori on the left bank. It was first commissioned by Pope Sixtus IV in 1473, for whom the bridge is named, and designed by Baccio Pontelli, a medieval architect known for the design of the Sistine Chapel.
Pope Sixtus IV had several reasons for building his new bridge, the primary one being the Jubilee of 1475. At the time, the only connection to Saint Peter’s Basilica was a ferry from the small riverside beach Arenula on the left bank to its opposite one at Renella. While another bridge did exist previously, it collapsed during the Jubilee of 1450. Ponte San Angelo had collapsed that year from the weight of the large crowds.
The pope decided the best site would be on the ruins of an ancient bridge called the Pons Aurelius. This predecessor of Ponte Sisto dates to 215 CE, during the rule of Marcus Aurelius Severus Antoninus, better known as Caracalla. In later documents, the bridge was referred to as Pons Antoninus, and by the 8th century CE, it was in ruins due to a Roman flood.
The current bridge consists of four brick arches covered in travertine. It measures 108 meters long and 11 meters wide. Notable characteristics of the bridge include a central oculus that helps lighten the masonry and diminishes the river’s pressure during floods. In 1877, two iron pedestrian walkways were added to the sides to help with foot traffic, but these were removed during the renovation of the Jubilee in 2000. Today, it is a pedestrian-only bridge with an example of Renaissance architecture. If you are also a lover of great views, Ponte Sisto is the place to visit to take in some of Rome’s glorious views.
Piazza Trilussa
Welcome to Piazza Trilussa, better known as the heart of Trastevere - where the Roman youth and visitors converge. It is located in front of the lively and artistic Ponte Sisto and sits in between the Lungotevere della Farnesina ('river promenade of Farnesina') to its left, and the Lungotevere Raffaello Sanzio (‘river promenade of Raffaello Sanzio) to its right.
This is a square of many components: The square's open space, its 15-step flight of stairs that lead to the stone-made Fontana Trilussa (Trilussa Fountain), a kiosk to its left, and to its right - a statue and stone engraving of the poet to which the entire area is dedicated: Carlo Alberto Salustri, known as Trilussa.
This unusual, almost-hidden fountain, designed by architect Van Santen, also known as Vasanzio in collaboration with Giovanni Fontana. This fontana was commissioned by Pope Paul V. Borghese of the 17th century papacy, in order to disperse and provide water to the quarters of Trastevere itself, Borgo, Ponte, as well as Regola.
This monument-like fountain consists of a central arch, in which its niche is flanked by two, slim Ionic columns. Its attic supports the Borghese family coat of arms that depicts an eagle and a dragon, under which a stone inscription of the dedication to the pontiff is engraved - for having redirected the water of acqua toward the left bank of the Tiber river.
Initially, Fontana Trilussa was located at the very end of Via Giulia, the left street that leads to Campo de Fiori once Ponte Sisto has been crossed.
Via Giulia Images & Depictions
Originally, this fountain - located on the street of Via Giulia, was built close to the Hospice of Mendicants, built by Pope Sixtus V. Peretti of the late 16th century papacy. Its waters were taken from the Traiano Paolo Auquedotto (‘Trajan Paolo Aqueduct’), located just underneath the Gianicolo (Janiculum Hill), also known as Fontana di Acqua Paola.
When dismantled in the latter half of the 19th century after a detrimental flood along the Tiber river, the remaining pieces were dispersed between various municipal warehouses.
Twenty-nine years after its demolition, architect Vescovali used almost 50% of the fountain's surviving pieces to rebuild the one we see today - sitting atop a flight of 15 steps, facing directly the Sisto bridge, and in visual conjunction to the Acqua Paola fountain on the Janiculum.
Monument to Poet, Trilussa
This protruding monument celebrated the satirical Carlo Alberto Salustri, best known as Trilussa - born in 1871 and died in 1950. Here, one can find a 1954 bronze statue depicting the Poet's upper body leaning toward its listeners as his arms rests on a textured stone as if he were reciting the poem written in the Roman dialect All'Ombra ('In the Shade'), engraved on a stone placed on the brick wall in which this monument rests.
Engraving of Giuseppe Vasi
All'Ombra (Original, written in Roman Dialect)
Mentre me leggo er solito giornale
Spaparacchiato all'ombra d'un pajaro,
vedo un porco e je dico: - Addio, Majale! -
vedo un ciuccio e je dico: - Addio - Somaro! -
Forse 'ste bestie nun me capiranno,
ma provo armeno la soddisfazzione
de pote di' le cose come stanno
senza paura de fini in priggione.
In the Shade (English Translated Version)
While I read the usual newspaper
Lounging in the shade of a haystack,
I see a pig and I tell him: “So long, Pig”!
I see a puppy and I tell him: “So long, Moron”!
Maybe these beasts won’t understand me,
but I at least give it a try
to be able to say the way things are
without fear of ending up in prison.
Piazza di S.Egidio
The Piazza was named after the church of Sant’Egidio built in 1630. On the right side of the church, the old Monastero delle Carmelitane Scalze was transferred to the city of Rome in 1875 and became the Museo di Roma in Trastevere in 2000 where aside its permanent collection of Roman culture, the annual World Press Photo exhibition can be admired; on the other side of the square is Palazzo Velli. It was built by the Velli family at the end of the fourteenth century. Today, it houses Palazzo Velli Expo event place where exhibitions and conferences take place.
The piazza has fork shaped entry points, accessible from three sides. The main entrance is through via della Paglia which comes from Piazza Santa Maria where the Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere is. Once in the piazza, looking forward are two additional entrances: via della Pelliccia and via della Scala which leads towards John Cabot University, Villa Farnesina and Galleria Corsini.
Even though it is a small narrow piazza, art can be found not only in the Museo di Roma but also in the square itself. Arriving from via della Paglia, on the left wall is a tribute to Trastevere by the Italian poet and film director Pier Paolo Pasolini: ‘ Va, Scendi lungo Le Svolte…’
On the right side, is a mural of Anna Perenna an ancient Roman moon goddess created by the artist Neve in 2016. The artist is known for his hyper-realistic wall ‘paintings all over Europe and use of black background to emphasize light.
Finally, the most striking art piece is the ‘Homeless Jesus’ sculpture of Timoty Schmalz placed on a bench in front of the church to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Sant ’Egidio community. The catholic sculptor ‘s bronze works are seen in Rome as well as in the rest of the world. This particular sculpture has over 50 copies exhibited in countries such as Israel, United-States, Canada (where it originated), Australia and many more.
Piazza San Callisto
Located in the heart of Trastevere, Piazza di San Callisto sees a lot of foot traffic from both locals and tourists alike. Piazza di San Callisto is named after the church Chiesa di San Callisto, which is arguably the most prominent historical building within the piazza. The building was initially made into a church in 741 AD and was later rebuilt in the 12th century and renovated in the 15th and 17th centuries. However, the church stands on a former house in which Papa Callisto I (Pope Callixtus I) (died 222 AD) prayed in and where his martyrdom supposedly took place, drowning in a well on the premises. Today, the church is connected to Palazzo di San Callisto, a sizable Baroque building complex built during the early 17th century.
Within Chiesa di San Callisto, there are two chapels, one of which houses two statues of angels that are said to have been made by the famous architect and sculptor Gian Lorenzo Bernini, who is known for his dramatic Baroque sculptures.
In Between Chiesa di San Callisto and Bar San Calisto is Palazzo Cavalieri, which is managed by Regione Lazio (the region of Lazio) today but in the past had multiple uses, from being the Velli family’s palazzo in the 16th century to being a building occupied by Jesuits in the late 18th century. If you are lucky enough to be in Piazza di San Callisto in the evening, you will likely see some type of musical performance in front of the palazzo, which can be seen and heard from anywhere in the piazza.
Leading outside of the piazza is via dell’Arco di San Calisto. In this small street, there is a hidden gem that is often overlooked–a small shrine depicting the Virgin Mary (Madonna) with a child, dating back to around the 18th century. Also on this street is the smallest house in Rome, which just happens to be the building where the Madonna is located.